Baysan

Baysan’s geographical location played a major role in its early development. The city emerged on the western edge of the Jordan Valley and within the fertile Beisan Plain, which serves as a natural corridor between the Jordan Valley to the east and the Marj Ibn Amer Plain to the west. Beisan overlooks the Jalud Valley and its passageway—one of the eastern natural gateways into the Marj Ibn Amer Plain. It also commands views over the northern parts of the Jordan Valley.

Its strategic location meant Beisan was historically connected to a vital transportation network. It became a stopover for 

caravans traveling between Greater Syria (Bilad al-Sham) and Egypt and a route for military campaigns moving between them. Over the centuries, it was frequently targeted by raids from Bedouin tribes coming from the east. Nevertheless, the city served as a frontline defense post protecting the fertile lands of the Marj Ibn Amer Plain and the Palestinian coastal plain. Over time, Beisan’s advantageous position attracted both merchants and invaders to settle in it.

Initially shaped by its roads, Beisan would later become a central hub that attracted routes to it. It became integrated with neighboring regions through a vital and dense network of major roads. A paved road along the western edge of the Jordan Valley connects Beisan northward to Tiberias, 38 km away, and southward to Jerusalem via Jericho, a distance of 127 km. Another major road runs through the Marj Ibn Amer Plain to Afula (27 km) and continues to Haifa (71 km). Two additional branches lead to Nazareth in the north (41 km) and to Jenin in the south (23 km), extending further to Nablus (76 km).

Baysan is also connected eastward to Jordan and Syria through paved roads that cross the Jordan River at the Sheikh Hussein Bridge (7.5 km), Damia Bridge to the south (51 km), and the Gesher (al-Majami’) Bridge to the north (17 km). The city lies at kilometer 59 on the Haifa–Daraa railway line, linking it by rail to Samakh on the southeastern shore of the Sea of Galilee (27 km), and from there to Daraa and Damascus.

After the 1948 war, however, Beisan’s role as a transportation hub was significantly diminished. Once a central and strategic location, it became increasingly marginal following its occupation by Zionist forces and the establishment of the 1949 Armistice Lines (see: Permanent Armistice between Jordan and Israel, Agreement).

Geography and Archaeology

The present-day site of Beisan encompasses both ancient ruins and modern areas. The ancient parts include ruins scattered across the hills surrounding the city. To the north lie Tell al-Husn (−175 m) and Tell al-Masṭaba (−150 m). To the northwest are Tell al-Jisr (−120 m), Tell Basul (−110 m), and Tell al-Zahra (−95 m). These sites contain remnants of residential buildings, cemeteries, public spaces, theaters, arenas, and defensive walls.

The modern city is situated on a small hill (−150 m) within the Beisan Valley, south of the Jalud River. It is worth noting that both the ancient and modern sites of Beisan are located on raised mounds within the otherwise flat Baysan Valley. This elevation likely served the practical purpose of avoiding the hazards of seasonal flooding.

The current location of Baysan (Beth Shean) combines both ancient and modern sites. The ancient sites are represented by ruins scattered across several hills surrounding the city. To the north of Beisan lie Tell al-Hisn (-175m) and Tell al-Masṭaba (-150m). To the northwest, the city is encircled by Tell al-Jisr (-120m), Tell Basul (-110m), and Tell al-Zahra (-95m). These ruins contain remnants of residential buildings, cemeteries, public spaces, theaters, arenas, and defensive walls.

The modern site of Beisan is situated on a small plateau (150 meters above sea level) that extends into the Jordan Valley south of the Jalud River. Notably, both the ancient and modern sites of the city are located on elevated land that rises above the surrounding flatlands of the Beisan Valley. This elevation was strategically chosen to avoid the dangers of flooding from the Jalud River and to stay clear of swamps, while also allowing for efficient use of the flat valley lands for agriculture.

The shift in the city’s location from north to south was likely intended to protect it from the hazards of floods and diseases, while taking advantage of the fertile lands near the Jalud River and its irrigation channels. Beisan was re-established on its relatively modern site in the early 19th century. Initially, buildings were confined to the surface of the Beisan plateau, which is one of the ancient marine terraces of the Jordanian side. As the town grew and urban development progressed, it gradually expanded to include the lower western edges of the valley and parts of the flat valley floor.

The terrain of Beisan generally slopes from west to east. The Jalud River, a tributary of the Jordan River, flows north of the city between Tell al-Hisn and Tell al-Masṭaba. It also supplies water to several nearby fishponds before passing south of Beisan. Numerous natural springs surround the city, contributing, along with the waters of the Jalud River and its branches, to the irrigation of surrounding agricultural lands.

Climate:

Beisan’s climate is shaped by its location in the Jordan Valley, which lies over 150 meters below sea level. It is also influenced by the natural opening of the Jezreel Valley to the Mediterranean Sea, allowing Mediterranean climatic effects to reach the area. The average annual temperature in Beisan is about 21°C, with average humidity around 58%. The relatively low humidity helps moderate the intensity of heat, especially in the summer when the average high temperature can reach 29°C and relative humidity drops to around 50%. In winter, the average low temperature is about 14°C, but it can drop to freezing in January, which poses a threat to crops.

The average annual rainfall in Beisan between 1901 and 1940 was approximately 305 mm. While this amount is generally sufficient to support agriculture in the Beisan region, the rainfall is irregular. For example, in the 1927/1928 season, rainfall measured only 149.5 mm, whereas in 1942/1943 it rose sharply to 514.4 mm. This variability has caused ongoing concern among local farmers. However, the widespread use of irrigation across large agricultural areas helps alleviate the impact of these fluctuations.

Beisan is also affected by winds blowing from the west. As these winds rush down from the highlands toward the city, they compress the air, causing the temperature to rise and stirring up dust storms, especially in the afternoon when the breezes from the Mediterranean reach the Jordan Valley. In spring, the city sometimes experiences hot waves accompanied by dusty winds from the southeast. Cold waves occasionally occur due to the arrival of cold northern winds.

Origin and Growth: 

Beisan’s history dates back to prehistoric times, more than six thousand years before Christ (see Ancient Ages). During the Canaanite era, the city was known as “Beth Shan,” which may mean “House of the God Shan” or “House of Rest.” The name was later adopted by the Israelites from the Canaanites. Beisan held significant commercial, military, and agricultural importance due to its location on the road connecting it to eastern Jordan, Hauran, and Damascus, as well as its position in a fertile valley abundant with water where palm trees, cotton, grains, and other crops were cultivated.

Around 1479 BCE, the Egyptians, under Thutmose III, conquered Beth Shan and held it for a long period until the reign of Ramses III in 1198 BCE. Despite repeated attempts, the Israelites failed to annex it. According to historical accounts, the Philistines crucified Saul and his sons on its walls after killing them in the Battle of Gilboa around 1004 BCE, a conflict between the Philistines and Israelites. The Greeks called Beisan “Scythopolis,” named after the Scythians—mounted warriors from the north—who occupied and settled it around 600 BCE. The Achaemenid Persians used these tribes as cavalry. Scythopolis became one of the most prominent cities in the Decapolis, a group of ten Greco-Roman cities spread across Palestine.

During the Roman era, Beisan retained its importance as the leader among the Decapolis cities and a major commercial hub for caravans heading toward Jordan. The ruins of this prosperous period remain visible, including a Roman theater on Tell al-Hisn and Roman aqueduct arches spanning the Jalud Stream. Under Byzantine rule, starting around 325 CE, Beisan became a bishopric center whose representative played a notable role in the Council of Nicaea. A monastery consisting of three rooms from this era still stands.

Baysan was among the earliest important cities to be conquered by the Arabs. In late 634 CE (13 AH), the city was besieged and peacefully surrendered to the Muslim generals Amr ibn al-As and Sharhabil ibn Hasna. According to some accounts, Sharhabil alone captured it after several days of siege. When some defenders sallied forth to fight, Sharhabil defeated them, and the city gates opened to the Muslim cavalry. The peace treaty for Beisan was distinctive: besides the usual imposition of jizya (tribute) on the population and land taxes, the Muslims shared the city’s homes, with locals residing in half the city and Muslims in the other half, where a mosque was established. A similar arrangement was made during the Muslim conquest of Damascus.

Baysan is historically notable among Muslims for housing the tomb of the prominent companion Abu Ubayda ibn al-Jarrah, commander of the Levant conquests. The tomb of Sharhabil ibn Hasna, who died alongside Abu Ubayda during the famous plague of Amwas in 639 CE (18 AH), may also be located there.

Many Arab geographers mentioned Beisan because of its significance. Ibn Khordadbeh, in his book Al-Masalik wa al-Mamalik, described it as a district of Jordan on the road from Damascus to Ramla, located between Tiberias and Lajjun. Al-Maqdisi, in Ahsan al-Taqasim, noted: “Beisan lies on a river, with many palm trees; it is one of the treasures of Palestine and Jordan, rich in water and spacious, although its water is heavy.” The Andalusian scholar Abu Ubayd al-Bakri (d. 1094 CE) described Beisan as two locations: one in the Levant known for its fine wine, and another in the Hejaz. Yaqut al-Hamawi recorded in his encyclopedia that Beisan is a city in the Jordan Valley, sometimes called “the tongue of the land,” lying between Hauran and Palestine, with a spring called “Ayn al-Fulus,” reputed to be heavenly, albeit slightly brackish.

Al-Idrisi (d. 1165 CE) wrote: “Baysan is a very small city with many palm trees, known for producing the ‘Saffan’ reeds used to make mats, which grow only there and nowhere else in the Levant.” Al-Harawi (d. 1220 CE) mentioned a mosque attributed to Caliph Umar ibn al-Khattab in Baysan and noted the presence of the Ayn al-Fulus spring, considered one of the region’s four main springs.

In late 634 CE (13 AH), the city of Baysan was besieged by the Muslim generals Amr ibn al-As and Sharhabil ibn Hasna, and was peacefully surrendered. According to another account, Sharhabil alone captured the city after several days of siege; when some defenders sallied out to fight the Muslims, he defeated them, which led to the city’s gates being opened to the Muslim cavalry. The peace treaty for Beisan was distinctive: in addition to the imposition of the jizya tax on the heads of the inhabitants and the land tax (kharaj), the Muslims shared the city’s homes with the locals, so that the native residents occupied half of the city, leaving the other half for the Muslims. The site for the mosque was also specifically designated for the Muslim community. A similar arrangement was made in the Muslim conquest treaty for Damascus.

Baysan maintained a special status in Muslim history due to the presence of the tomb of the prominent companion Abu Ubayda ibn al-Jarrah, the commander of the Levant conquests, and it may also contain the tomb of Sharhabil ibn Hasna. Both men died during the infamous plague of Amwas in 639 CE (18 AH).

Due to its importance, Beisan is frequently mentioned by many Arab geographers. Ibn Khordadbeh, in his book Al-Masalik wa al-Mamalik, described it as “a district of Jordan, situated on the road from Damascus to Ramla, lying between Tiberias and Lajjun.” Al-Maqdisi, in Ahsan al-Taqasim, said: “Baysan lies on a river, abundant in palm trees, one of the treasures of Palestine and Jordan, rich in water and spacious, though its water is heavy.” The Andalusian jurist and minister Abu Ubayd al-Bakri (d. 1094 CE) noted: “There are two places named Baysan: one in the Levant, known for its fine wine, and another in the Hejaz.” Yaqut al-Hamawi mentioned in his encyclopedia: “Baysan is a city in Jordan in the Syrian Jordan Valley, said to be ‘the tongue of the land,’ located between Hauran and Palestine, with the spring ‘Ayn al-Fulus,’ reputed to be from paradise, though its water is slightly salty.”

Al-Idrisi (d. 1165 CE) described Baysan as “a very small city with many palm trees, where the ‘Saffan’ reeds grow—the only place in the Levant where they are found—and from which mats known as ‘saffaniya’ are made.” Al-Harawi (d. 1220 CE) stated: “Baysan is said to have a mosque attributed to Caliph Umar ibn al-Khattab, and contains the spring ‘Ayn al-Fulus,’ said to be one of the four main springs.”

When the Crusaders advanced into the Arab East, Baysan came under Frankish (Crusader) control after they captured Jerusalem. However, the Arabs recaptured it following the Battle of Hattin in 1187 CE (583 AH). The Crusaders reoccupied Baysan again in 1217 CE (612 AH).

One significant event linked to Beisan during the Mamluk era was the aftermath of the Battle of Ain Jalut. The victorious Mamluk soldiers pursued the fleeing Mongols until they confronted them again at Beisan, where a fierce battle took place, resulting in heavy Mongol casualties and substantial spoils for the Mamluks. Another important battle occurred between the Mamluks, led by Janbirdi al-Ghazali, and the Ottoman army under Sinan Pasha, ending in the Mamluks’ defeat and the capture of Beisan and its region by the Ottomans.

In 1812 CE, the traveler Burckhardt passed through Beisan and described it as follows: “Baysan is situated on elevated ground on the western side of the Jordan Valley, where the mountain range bordering the valley descends considerably, forming a completely exposed highland. The old city was irrigated by a river now called ‘Maa Baysan,’ which branches out and flows into the plain. The ruins of Beisan stretch extensively, with the town located along the banks of the stream and in the valleys created by its many branches. The current village of Baysan consists of seventy or eighty houses, and its inhabitants live in extreme misery due to plundering by the Arabs of the Jordan Valley, despite the heavy tribute they pay them.”

It seems that Baysan experienced revival and expansion again in the first quarter of the twentieth century. The author of Vilayet Beirut wrote about Baysan between 1914 and 1918: “The number of houses in Baysan is estimated at 600, including twenty to twenty-five Christian homes, fifteen Jewish homes, and the rest Muslim.”

Archaeological Excavations:

Several archaeological sites lie near Baysan, including Tell al-Jisr, Khan al-Ahmar, Tell al-Mustabba, and Tell al-Hisn—the site of ancient Baysan (see Ruins and Archaeological Sites). The excavations at Tell al-Hisn were among the earliest in Palestine, conducted by the University of Pennsylvania from 1922 to 1933 in two phases: the first (1922–1926) led by Fisher with Allen Roe, and the second (1927–1933) supervised by Fitzgerald. Much of the initial excavation focused on the summit of the tell, revealing temples dating from the Middle Bronze Age through the Byzantine period.

In the first seven levels uncovered during the initial phase, archaeologists found four Canaanite temples contemporary with the reigns of Amenhotep III, Seti I, Ramses II, and Ramses III, as well as a Byzantine church. Overall, eighteen strata were identified, containing numerous artifacts alongside architectural remains.

Notable finds include a Babylonian cylindrical seal inscribed with cuneiform, a white stone statue representing the god Reshef, a basalt statue depicting a lion and lioness in combat, a model of a mudbrick house, pottery coffins, and tombs from various eras. Among the church ruins, gold jewelry such as chains, plates, and bracelets were discovered, as well as a bronze incense burner and ten coins.

From these excavations, it is clear that Baysan has been continuously inhabited from the fourth millennium BCE through the Arab period.

Modern Baysan:

Baysan experienced significant development following the extension in 1905 of the Haifa–Daraa railway line, which passed just north of the city (see: Railways). The population grew alongside the urban expansion, boosted by the settlement of some Bedouins and merchants in the city, in addition to the natural population increase of the original residents. By 1914, the population had exceeded 1,000 inhabitants. Urban growth was also encouraged by the Ottoman authorities before World War I, who focused on organizing the city’s market and buildings. During this period, Bisan comprised approximately 600 houses. The city’s expansion gradually moved slightly away from the Jalud River and its tributaries, encroaching more on the lands of the Jordan Valley (the Ghor).

During the British Mandate, Baysan flourished due to its strategic location and administrative role as the center of the Bisan district. The population rose from 1,914 people in 1922 (including only 41 Jews) to 3,101 in 1931 (88 Jews), and then to 5,180 in 1945 (only 20 Jews). The city developed architecturally thanks to the establishment of a municipal council that paved streets, planted eucalyptus trees, and drained many marshes to reduce the threat of malaria. The municipal budget grew from 1,653 Palestinian pounds in 1927 to 8,076 pounds in 1944, and the number of building permits issued increased from 43 in 1932 to 62 in 1940, reflecting a focus on urban improvement.

Baysan had a health clinic serving about 6,771 patients in 1944, of whom 1,218 suffered from malaria and 1,873 from eye diseases. The widespread marshlands, hot climate, and frequent afternoon dust storms were the main factors contributing to the prevalence of malaria and eye ailments.

Education also advanced, with government schools enrolling around 366 boys and 243 girls in the 1942/1943 academic year.

On May 12, 1948, a tragic day in Baysan’s history, Jewish forces captured the city and expelled its peaceful Arab residents from their homes. Baysan remained abandoned for a full year during which the occupying authorities demolished much of the city’s historic and archaeological structures. Later, the city was rebuilt with a changed landscape and populated by hundreds of Jewish families. The Jewish population grew from 1,200 in 1950 to 10,050 in 1961, 12,800 in 1966, 13,500 in 1968, and reached 16,100 by 2001. Starting in the early 1970s, many residents emigrated due to poor economic conditions. Today, about half of Baysan’s population consists of Jews who immigrated from North Africa—mostly Egypt and Morocco—and around 30% are Jews from Arab and Islamic countries such as Iran, Iraq, and Turkey. The remaining Jewish residents are either from Europe or born in Palestine.

In 1963, projects were launched to attract tourists to Baysan, including the establishment of an archaeological museum, the reconstruction of the ancient Roman amphitheater, and fish farms on the western and eastern sides of the city fed by a branch of the Jalud River south of Bisan. The city also has a power plant, a main water pump, textile, metal, and plastic manufacturing factories, diamond polishing workshops, and electrical machinery production. Additionally, a small airport is located about 3 kilometers north of Bisan.

Functions of Baysan:

Baysan’s original function was military, arising from its location at Tell al-Husn (the ancient mound). Later, commercial and agricultural functions were added during the Roman and Islamic periods. Under the British Mandate, Bisan combined administrative, educational, agricultural, commercial, and industrial roles—functions that continued into the period of Israeli occupation.

1. Administrative Function:
   Baysan served as the center of a subdistrict in the Jenin district during Ottoman rule. It was then designated as a district center within the Nablus district during the early British Mandate period, before being incorporated into the Galilee district. By the late Mandate period, the Bisan district included the city itself and thirty surrounding villages and tribal encampments, with an estimated population of around 23,590 in 1945, all relying on Bisan as their administrative hub with various government offices.

2. Educational Function:
   Baysan had two schools—one for boys and one for girls. In 1945/1946, the boys’ school introduced the first agricultural secondary class. Students came from neighboring villages to attend these schools.

3. Agricultural Function:
   Baysan was primarily an agricultural city located in the heart of the fertile Bisan plain, blessed with abundant water and rich soil. In 1944, the major crops in the Bisan district included wheat (2,214 tons), barley (2,394 tons), lentils (185 tons), fava beans (65 tons), chickpeas (68 tons), corn (314 tons), sesame (278 tons), olives (120 tons), watermelon (223 tons), grapes (928 tons), and vegetables (7,532 tons). Citrus groves covered 1,617 dunams around Bisan, with banana plantations covering 48 dunams in 1945.

4. Commercial Function:
   Baysan’s geographical location at the junction between the Jordan Valley to the east and mountainous regions to the west fostered vibrant trade. The construction of the railway station on the city’s northern edge and the presence of major paved roads crossing through the city center boosted commercial activity. Notably, the longitudinal road along the Jordan Valley intersects perpendicularly with the transverse road linking the valley to the coastal plain right in Baysan’s heart, where the main market is located. The market bustled with commerce, serving local villagers and facilitating the sale of their agricultural and livestock products. Good transportation links connected Baysan with neighboring villages, the Galilee, the Marj Ibn Amer plain, and Jenin, further strengthening trade and providing significant economic benefits.

5. Industrial Function:
   Industry in Baysan was initially limited to traditional light industries, including dairy products, grain milling, olive oil pressing, date processing, basket weaving, barley processing, wool combing, and fruit drying. More recently, industries expanded to include textile, plastics, metalworks, and electrical machinery production.