Safad

Safad is an Arab city, and the base of a district bearing its name. It is the capital of Upper Galilee and its most important site. It has been under Israeli occupation since 1948 until today.

A. Natural Framework of Safad

1. Geographical Location: The location of Safad has held significant importance throughout historical periods, and it continues to do so. Its fortified castle played a major role during the Crusades due to its oversight of the northern part of the Galilee region and the road between Damascus and Acre. Military conquests aimed at capturing Safad to pave the way for control of Galilee.
   Its commercial location was equally as important as its strategic one. Safad was a postal station between the Levant and Egypt during the Mamluk era. Mail arrived via Gaza, Lydda, Jenin, and Hattin, and from there to Damascus via the Bridge of Jacob’s Daughters on the Jordan River. Carrier pigeons from Egypt also followed this same route. During both the Roman and Islamic periods, it was a station along the caravan trade route between the Levant and Egypt.

The ruling authorities chose Safad as the administrative center for the Upper Galilee region due to its central geographical location. During the British Mandate, Safad became the headquarters of the region, a crossroads for transportation routes linking it with neighboring regions in Palestine, Syria, and Lebanon. In addition to the main roads, secondary roads connected Safad to the nearby Arab villages. It is 29 km from the northern border of Palestine, 40 km from Khalsa, 36 km from Tarshiha, 48 km from the station, 74 km from Haifa, 165 km from Lydda, 175 km from Jaffa, 206 km from Jerusalem, and 264 km from Beersheba.

2. Land of Safad: Safad is built on a mountainous area ranging in elevation from 790 to 840 meters above sea level. It is surrounded to the northwest by the Safad Mountain area, which has an elevation between 600 and 820 meters. To the north and northeast of the city lies Mount Canaan, which rises above 950 meters. To the southeast, the elevated area of al-Daheriya al-Fouqa extends sharply into the Jordan Valley, while the Ziyud and Jarmaq Mountains stand tall to the west of Safad, with their peaks being the highest in Palestine (1,100–1,200 meters).

Safad was built on several hills separated by valleys running southward. The northwest hill, which is an extension of the southern slope of Mount Canaan, is the oldest inhabited area of Safad. The city’s development extended southward, surrounding its castle built by the Arabs. Safad was protected by a strong wall and wide moat to guard it against invaders. Over time, the city expanded beyond the walls as its population grew, occupying the valleys as well as the hills and slopes.

The city of Safad is bordered to the north by one of the tributaries of Wadi al-Limon, which feeds into Wadi Amud, ending at the Sea of Galilee. Some of the tributary valleys of Wadi Amud originate from the mountains to the south of Safad. These valleys carved deep gorges in the steep mountainous terrain made up of limestone. Safad is subject to earthquakes due to the instability of its earth crust and the presence of fractures that have formed along some of its valleys. Among the most famous earthquakes that struck Safad was the 1837 earthquake, which caused significant damage and loss of life.

3. Climate and Water: The climate of Safad belongs to the Mediterranean type. The factor of elevation significantly affects the city’s climate, making it mild in the summer and cold in the winter. As a result, Safad is one of Palestine’s most beautiful summer resorts, with forests covering large areas of its mountains, giving the region a beauty akin to that of Ramallah. The average temperature in August ranges between a low of 18°C and a high of 29°C. In January, the average temperature ranges between a low of 4°C and a high of 10°C.

Safad receives significant rainfall, with the annual average reaching about 728 mm, which is high compared to other cities in Palestine. Snow also falls on Safad nearly every year, and, like the rain, it contributes to replenishing the groundwater reservoirs once it melts.

Water in Safad is readily available, especially from springs used for drinking and irrigation. Springs are abundant in the lowlands, valleys, and at the base of the mountains and faults. Some of the well-known springs include Ain al-Afiya, Ain al-Hasal, Ain al-Zarqa, Ain al-Jan, and Ain al-Tubna. Water is supplied to Safad from two springs to the east of the city, called Ain al-Ramaneh and Ain al-Laboueh. Wells in the area number between 20 and 30, but drilling them is costly due to the deep groundwater reservoirs. Agriculture in Safad depends on sufficient rainfall to support the growth of all kinds of crops.

B. Establishment and Growth

Safad, like many other cities in Palestine, was founded during the early historical periods by the Canaanites. Its ancient name, “Saffat,” means gift or pledge. At the time of its establishment, it was a small and insignificant village, and it remained so for many centuries. It was occupied by the Romans, and a fortified castle was built there during their era. Safad did not play a major role during the early Islamic period, and it was not mentioned in the early Arab conquests, with its earliest mention coming in the 10th century CE.

Safad gained prominence during the Crusades. It was occupied by the Crusaders in 536 AH / 1140 CE, and they built a fortress to defend the coastline they had conquered from the attacks of the Damascene and Ayyubid princes. In 553 AH / 1157 CE, King Baldwin III of the Crusaders sought refuge in the fortress after his army was defeated by the forces of the Ayyubid Sultan Nur ad-Din Mahmud ibn Zangi at the Battle of Malahiya. When Salah ad-Din al-Ayyubi triumphed in the Battle of Hattin in 583 AH / 1187 CE, he laid siege to Safad, captured the city, and took control of the fortress in 586 AH / 1189 CE. In 618 AH / 1220 CE, the Muslims destroyed the fortress to prevent the Crusaders from capturing it again. In 639 AH / 1240 CE, Safad returned to Crusader rule, and they rebuilt the fortress. However, in 667 AH / 1267 CE, Sultan Baybars captured the fortress and restored it to Muslim control.

In the Mamluk period, Safad continued to play an important role and became the capital of one of the Syrian provinces, which included the cities of Galilee and Acre. After this period, Safad gradually lost its importance until it surrendered to the Ottomans without resistance in 923 AH / 1517 CE, becoming the capital of a sanjak under the Ottomans, which included the cities of Galilee and Acre, and even Tyre. In the 17th century, Emir Fakhr al-Din II of the Ma’n dynasty held significant power in the Galilee region and used Safad as a fortress to protect his estates. However, the Ottomans overthrew him, and the Shihabi dynasty was established afterward. They appointed Omar ibn Zidan as the sheikh of Safad to help them.

In 1164 AH / 1750 CE, Sheikh Zahir al-Omar became independent from the Shihabis and took Acre as his base. During his reign, agriculture, trade, and construction flourished, and the people lived in security. However, Safad suffered heavily from a devastating earthquake in 1173 AH / 1759 CE, which damaged the city. In 1182 AH / 1768 CE, Zahir al-Omar became the ruler of Galilee and governed Safad, Acre, and Nazareth, seeking independence from the Ottoman Empire, but he was assassinated. After his death, the Turkish governor Ahmad Pasha al-Jazzar ruled Safad.

 

At the beginning of the 17th century, Safad was a flourishing city. The Swiss traveler Burckhardt passed through it in 1227 AH / 1812 CE and described it as a prominent town built around a hill crowned by a castle, surrounded by a wall and a moat. Olive groves and vineyards encircled it. The inhabitants were engaged in the production of indigo and the weaving of cotton fabrics. A market was held every Friday for neighboring villagers.

In 1235 AH / 1819 CE, the city was struck by another earthquake, causing severe damage. Then, in 1248 AH / 1833 CE, it was occupied by Ibrahim Pasha, son of the governor of Egypt. In 1253 AH / 1837 CE, a third devastating earthquake turned the city into a small village due to the extensive destruction it suffered. In 1257 AH / 1841 CE, Safad returned to Ottoman rule. By 1304 AH / 1886 CE, it became the center of a district (qada’) in the Sanjak of Acre. During this time, Safad witnessed some urban development. In 1918, it was occupied by the British during World War I.

During the British Mandate period, the District of Safad included more than sixty Arab villages, the most important of which were: Abil al-Qamh, Biriyya, al-Buwayziya, al-Khalisa, al-Ja’una, al-Zuq al-Tahtani, al-Rihaniyya, Sa’sa’, al-Shuna, al-Salihiyya, al-Safsaf, al-Azizat, ‘Akbara, ‘Alma, ‘Ayn al-Zaytun, Qaddis, Qaddita, al-Mallaha, al-Mansura, al-Na‘ima, Hunin, Tuba al-Shamaliyya, Kafr Bir’im, Jahula, al-Badwara, Tibtaba, Khayam al-Walid, al-Zangariyya, among others.

These villages were home to Arab tribes or were located nearby. The most prominent among them were: the Ghawarna Arabs (settled in al-Khalisa and its neighboring villages), the Heib Arabs, the Northern Arabs, the Ka’ush Arabs, the Muhammadat Arabs, and the Sayyad Arabs.

In 1908, Safad had a population of about 10,000. During World War I, it consisted of about 4,000 houses and a population of 12,000. The city included several neighborhoods, three of which extended along the slopes of Mount Canaan. These neighborhoods included: al-Akrad, al-Diyana, al-Jura, al-Qal’a, al-Burj, al-Sawawin, Jami‘ al-Ahmar, al-Wata, and al-Suq. The most developed neighborhood was al-Qal’a, which had about 100 modern homes. Except for approximately 400 modern houses with tiled roofs, most homes in Safad were built in the traditional style with white stones and were closely packed. Most of the houses consisted of a single floor. The newly constructed buildings gave Safad a noticeable architectural beauty.

The city center consisted of markets with about 80 shops. It also housed mosques — the most prominent being Jami‘ al-Younesi, al-Jami‘ al-Ahmar, Jami‘ al-Swaiqa, Jami‘ al-Juqandari, Jami‘ Sayyiduna Ya‘qub, and Jami‘ Khafaja. In addition, the city center included the government house, a hospital, and some government offices.

The layout of Safad took on a circular or semi-circular shape — meaning the streets surrounded the city center in circular forms, with the city center forming a core to which all roads led. Undoubtedly, the mountainous terrain of Safad influenced this radial circular layout.

During the British Mandate, Safad largely retained its general shape despite its demographic and urban growth. In 1922, the city’s population was 8,761, which was lower than its population before and during World War I. This decline was attributed to the harsh conditions during the war, as many inhabitants suffered from diseases and famine. Some emigrated abroad in search of better livelihoods.

After the situation stabilized somewhat, the population gradually increased, reaching 9,441 in 1931, living in 2,126 houses. In 1945, the population reached 11,930, and by the end of the Mandate, it was estimated at about 13,386.

Safad’s urban area expanded; in 1945, its area reached 1,429 dunums. The Safad Municipality oversaw the city’s affairs and urban planning. Its expenditures rose from 2,196 Palestinian pounds in 1927 to 5,102 pounds in 1944. In 1935, the municipality issued 98 building permits, and in 1944, 113 permits. It also contributed to vital projects such as water, electricity, roads, and schools. Its efforts were evident in the establishment of markets, hotels, cafés, clubs, and parks.

Arab residents concentrated in the eastern and southern parts of the city, while Jews concentrated in the western part. Arabs continuously resisted Zionist settlement throughout the Mandate period, and their resistance peaked during the 1948 War. However, the Zionists gained the upper hand and occupied Safad on May 12, 1948 (see: Battle of Safad). As a result of the war, most of the Arab population was expelled, reducing the population to 2,317 by the end of 1948.

Soon after, the population rose again with the influx of Zionist settlers. By the end of 1949, the number of Jewish residents reached 4,000, and by the end of 1950, it rose to 5,500. The number jumped to 15,900 in 1983. A new residential suburb was built to the east of Safad. By 2001, the population had reached 25,000.

C. Functional Structure of Safad

Since its early days, Safad served several limited roles — military, commercial, and agricultural. Over time, the city developed, expanded in size and area, and diversified its functions.

 

1) The Military Function

Safad has played a military role since its inception, owing to its topographic location, which made it easy to defend and protect against potential aggressors. Geographically, it overlooked neighboring areas, controlled natural routes, and dominated the roads leading to those regions. It overlooks Hula Plain to the north, Lake Tiberias to the southeast, and controls the Acre–Rama–Farradiyya road from the west. It also commands the roads leading to Palestine’s northern borders. For this reason, Israel made a point to occupy it early in the 1948 war to gain control over all of the Galilee.

2) The Administrative Function

Safad was the administrative center of the Safad District during both the Ottoman and British Mandate periods. Between 1899 and the late Ottoman era, the district included 78 villages and farms. Under the British Mandate, the district included the city of Safad and 69 villages, in addition to numerous Arab tribes living near several villages.

By the late Ottoman period, the area of the district reached 750 km², which slightly decreased to 696 km² by 1945.

• In 1904, the district population was around 22,715.
• In 1908, it grew to 26,113.
• By the end of the Ottoman period, it reached 32,137.
• In 1922, it dropped to 22,790, due to war and economic hardship.
• In 1931, it rose again to 39,713.
• By 1945, it was estimated at 53,620, with a population density of 77 people per km².

During the British Mandate, the city’s administration was headed by an Arab sub-governor (Qa’immaqam) reporting to the district commissioner in Nazareth. Safad had courts and government departments for agriculture, health, land, and postal services. Schools were under the supervision of the Haifa education inspector. Public security was maintained by Palestinian police under British leadership.

The residents of the Safad district benefited from the services provided by the city during the Mandate. After 1948, the situation changed drastically, as Safad became a district center in the Northern District of Israel, surrounded by Jewish settlements—most of which were built on the lands of destroyed Arab villages.

3) The Agricultural Function

The mountainous terrain surrounding Safad was suitable for cultivating legumes, grapes, olives, and tobacco. The city was surrounded by orchards of fruit trees, especially grapes and olives, growing along the mountain slopes. Grains, vegetables, and certain fruits were grown in valleys and lowlands.

A notable agricultural area was Wadi al-Laymun (“Valley of Lemons”) on the city’s western slopes, known also as Wadi al-Tawahin (“Valley of Mills”), where sweet lemons thrived.

To the southeast lay Wadi al-Hamra, full of orchards that supplied half of the city’s fruit and vegetable needs, especially mulberries, plums, pomegranates, and tomatoes. The rest of Safad’s agricultural needs were met by surrounding Arab villages.

Key agricultural products of the Safad district included:
olives, grapes, figs, watermelons, apricots, plums, peaches, loquats, oranges, wheat, barley, corn, and various vegetables.

4) The Commercial Function

Historically, Safad was a stop on trade caravan routes and served as a commercial center for the agricultural and animal products of its region. It also offered villagers essential goods such as foodstuffs, textiles, clothing, electric appliances, and household items.

Safad’s markets were filled with agricultural and forest products such as tomatoes, grapes, figs, lemons, wheat, legumes, dairy products, charcoal, and firewood.

In addition to regular markets, a major weekly market was held every Friday, attracting large numbers of people from surrounding areas to trade goods.

Commercial activity was further encouraged by the fact that Safad was a popular tourist destination and summer resort, known for its natural beauty—tall trees, springs, historic and archaeological sites—which helped support a growing hospitality industry of hotels, shops, cafés, and transportation services.

Before the city was occupied by Israel in 1948, most of Safad’s Arab population worked in trade and retail.

5) The Industrial Function

Safad had a long tradition of craft industries. It was known for felt production, based on the wool provided by local sheep. In the 19th century, indigo dyeing and cotton fabric weaving were the main occupations of the residents.

During the British Mandate, new industries were introduced, including:

• Food processing
• Woodworking
• Leatherworking
• Basket and chair making using water plants from the Hula marshes
• Other light traditional crafts

After 1948, industry in Safad expanded as Zionist authorities sought to transform it into an industrial city to anchor the new generation of settlers. Despite these efforts, many “sabra” (native-born) Jews preferred not to remain in the city and began migrating elsewhere.

Prominent post-1948 industries in Safad included:

• Food production: sweets, chocolate, matzah (unleavened bread), coffee
• Tobacco
• Sewing machines
• Stoves
• Bicycles
• Diamond cutting
• Textiles and clothing
• Printing
• Construction materials

Tourism became one of the city’s leading industries, especially in Mount Canaan, a thriving summer resort area.

6) The Educational Function

The Rushdiyya School was established in 1880, and by the late 19th century had 30 students. The British later founded a secondary school, which had 50 students.

By the end of World War I, the Safad district had 10 official schools and 26 unofficial schools. Within the city, there were three schools for boys and one for girls, accommodating 280 male students and 150 female students.

During the British Mandate, education improved notably. In the 1942/43 academic year, Safad had:

• Two elementary schools for boys
• One secondary school for boys
• One school for girls

Together, these schools had:

• 805 male students taught by 24 teachers
• 319 female students taught by 11 teachers

By October 1947, the number of students in five schools (three for boys and two for girls) approached 2,000.

Safad was also known for its Scottish College, which played a key role in teaching English and mathematics, but it was relocated to Haifa after World War II.

Education contributed significantly to the cultural, social, and economic development of Safad’s residents. Educated locals also played a major role in educating Palestinians in other towns and villages, helping to spread awareness and cultural development, and strengthening the resistance against British colonial and

Zionist forces in Palestine.